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Appellation - Conca de Barbera

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Bodegas Concavins Red Blend -2000 (WE-26746)

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Sometimes concept exceeds the wine itself, and this may be a case in point. The blend is odd, and the fact that each grape comes from a different part of Spain is potentially more odd. As for the wine, it has a nice perfume to it, courtesy of the Rhone varieties in the mix. And while the cherry/berry fruit is forward, it’s maybe too sweet and basic in terms of length, structure and mouthfeel. Still, it’s worth a try for the experimental tasters out there. 1 Note

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Torres Chardonnay -2002 (WE-35827)

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Soft and buttery on the nose, with a touch of pear. Shy pear and apple flavors drive toward a modest finish that’s dry and almondy. Smooth on the palate, but not dynamic. This is intended to be a prestige Chardonnay, yet while it has mouthfeel there’s not a whole lot of zest or character. 1 Note

$47.00
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Torres Chardonnay -1999 (WE-10654)

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Though handsomely balanced, this medium-weight Chardonnay shows only modest complexity, with apple, tropical fruit and mild toasty notes on the nose and palate. A slight caramel note gives a vaguely sweet cast to the basically dry fruit flavors. Has appeal and some length, but it’s not the statement one would expect at the price. —M.M. 1 Note

$48.00
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Torres Chardonnay -2001 (WE-31574)

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This barrel-fermented, pricey Chardonnay is heavy and doesn’t have much life in it. The nose is flat and mildly oaky, while the palate is immensely woody, with low-level acidity and buttery, baked-apple flavors. To say it doesn’t hit hard is an understatement. But to say it’s outright bad would be overly harsh. 1 Note

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Torres Chardonnay -2000 (WE-19038)

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Milmanda is 100% Chardonnay from Catalonia, but this vintage is a touch flatter than previous years. The nose is nice, offering spring flowers, vanilla and nutmeg. The flavors lean toward tropical fruit, especially banana. The warm finish is where you first catch some spicy oak. Too bad it isn’t more lively. 1 Note

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Torres Chardonnay -2005 (WE-72785)

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As long as the price keeps creeping up on this wine, we’re happy to say that the quality seems better and the oak level lower than in past years. This version of Milmanda offers roasted corn, walnut and other smoky, barrel-based aromas. Throughout the fruit is shy but the mouthfeel and oak are smooth. Finishes with a blast of white pepper and toast. 1 Note

$53.00
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Torres Red Blend -1999 (WE-35822)

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Modern in terms of its forward oak, extraction and deep color. The nose is packed with charcoal, tobacco and pepper, while the fresh, forward palate pushes cherry cola and baked fruit. Firm tannins, however, close it down, leaving a clipped finish and the perception of only moderate depth. Decant to get best results. 1 Note

$98.00
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Torres Red Blend -2000 (WE-46411)

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Still young and jumpy, but the ripeness and pedigree of this Penedès bruiser is beyond reproach. It’s big, bold and deep as a mountain lake, with black plum, bullion and a pile of blackberry on the palate. Tons of extract and tannins make this inky, saturated heavyweight a wine to ponder. For fans of forward, beefy reds. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. 1 Note

$100.00
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Torres Red Blend -2001 (WE-66055)

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Big in every way, with tons of new oak, popcorn and coffee sitting on top of dark-fruit aromas. Modern despite its incorporation of several indigenous grapes, this blend delivers a blast of roasted black cherry and plum flavors in front of a resiny finish that’s dripping with menthol and molasses. Unique if a touch syrupy; it’s clearly shooting for the modern style. 1 Note

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Torres Red Blend -1998 (WE-24605)

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The wine sounds pretty impressive: It’s comprised of local Catalan grape varities Monastrell, Garnacha Tinta, Garró, Samsó and Cariñena, which are all grown at Grans Muralles, a single vineyard that dates back to the Middle Ages. And very good it is, though it doesn’t taste as singular as its heritage suggests. Black plum and cherry notes are couched in brambly, oak flavors. The wine has woodsy, rustic tannins in the mouth, and even more on the finish. —D.M. 1 Note

$106.00
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