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 Filed as : Wine TipsEntertaining

Aging Gracefully

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  • Publish Date: Sep 10, 2010

Aging Gracefully
What to know about older, aged wines.

Do you have one grandparent who's struggling, and another who's planning to follow Phish on tour? Believe it or not, wines work the same way--some decline and fall apart as they get older while others develop new and interesting characteristics as they age. In honor of National Grandparents Day this weekend (Sept. 12), we bring you our five top tips for aging wine.

The first thing to know is that not all older wines are better. In fact, most of the world's wines are produced to be consumed quickly--within a year or less of bottling. So when you see an old, inexpensive bottle on the store shelf, odds are that the wine is well past its prime. Just as a ’57 Chevy with a low price tag should set off alarm bells, the same goes for a bottle of wine.

Though there are exceptions to pretty much every rule, the tried-and-true varieties and regions with a reputation for aging well are the Cabernets and Merlots from France's Bordeaux, as well as that region's dessert wines, Sauternes and Barsac. But there are plenty more from other regions and countries. See a list of the wines with the best reputation for aging below.

To learn more, such as what to look for and how to tell you've found a good bottle, read our five top tips for aging wine. You might even want to open a bottle with Grandma once she gets back from those Phish concerts.

1. Regions and varieties known to age well
Just about every winemaker in every region in the world will claim that his or her wines age well. That may be true, but only few regions and varieties deliver legendary ageability. They are:

• Cabernets and Merlots from Bordeaux
• Nebbiolo (Barolo and Barbaresco, both in the Piedmont region) and Sangiovese (Brunello di Montalcino) from Italy
• Super Tuscans from Italy
• Syrahs from the Northern Rhône
• Grand Cru Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays from Burgundy
• Some Chenin Blancs from France's Loire Valley
• Some Cabernets from California and Washington
• Some Pinot Noirs from Oregon
• Vintage Champagnes
• Certain, specific wineries from Spain, such as Lopez de Heredia and Vega Sicilia
• Dessert wines such as Tokaji from Hungary; Canadian Icewine; Port from Portugal; sweet German Rieslings; and Sauternes from Bordeaux.

2. Not all vintages are alike
Even the abovementioned great regions can have bad years when the weather just doesn't cooperate--as was the case for Bordeaux and much of the Rhône Valley in 2002. These wines aren't likely to age well. But to be sure about which vintages have aging potential, look for expert advice, such as that of Master of Wine Jancis Robinson.

3. Good storage is essential
To age at their best, wines need to be kept in a cool place like a cellar or wine fridge, set between about 55 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit. When bottles are exposed to warmer temperatures they tend to age faster, which can be a good thing if you want to get a bottle into drinking condition a couple years ahead of time. But excessive heat can cause an ageable wine to break down quickly. If you don't have proof or reasonable certainty that the bottle was stored well, don't buy it. Another sure sign of heat damage is if you can see that wine has pushed its way up through the cork, making it and the foil sticky to the touch.
To learn the basics about wine fridges, click here.

4. What to look for after opening the bottle
When a red has aged well, the color has transformed from deep, dark purple to more of a lighter, brick red. You can also expect the aromas to be more varied--not just red or black fruits--in a more complex bouquet, and the wine will feel much softer in your mouth since the tannins and acid will have smoothed out. The flavors will be more complex and harmonious as well. If a wine is over the hill, it'll taste and smell unmistakably like vinegar.

Whites are a bit trickier, but tend to develop a richness and roundness that they don't have in their youth. With a dry white, you might find that the color is darker. But if the wine smells like apple brandy, that means it's oxidized and over the hill. Sweet whites, however, can get much darker in color over time and not necessarily taste as sugary, but will show much more complex, dried-fruit flavors and aromas.

5. Don't get frustrated
Old wine in good condition is a rare treat; bottle variation is common, so if you've had one bottle that aged very well, then on second try another bottle of the same wine is not so hot, that's just par for the course. That's why it's a good idea to have a few different bottles on hand when you're opening old wine. It often happens that you get unlucky. The real joy is taking what you taste and learning from it, and enjoying the wine for what it is (or isn't)--and looking forward to the next time you get to open an oldie.

It's also important to take note of other people's experiences with old bottles to better inform your own buying practices and uncorking times. If you recently opened an old bottle, tell us what the experience was likein the comments section below.

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