Winery - Cockburn's
* Expert NoteJanuary 12, 2012
Something as syrupy and rich as this —and also packed with dark bitter chocolate and espresso—is like dessert. A lot of thick, sticky plum fruit precedes an equally thick finish. A tad clumsy, but packed with flavor. Give it time.
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Cockburn's Port - 1998
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* Expert NoteJanuary 12, 2012
Côrte-Real brought six of the company’s last 12 bottles to the U.S. for these tastings, making this vintage by far the scarcest of those tasted. It is translucent throughout, but still shows some ruby color at its core, with amber at the rim. Slightly spirity on the nose, with delicate notes of dried cherries and leather. In the mouth, it’s full-bodied, with pepper, nut and toffee flavors. A bit hot on the long, mouthcoating finish, the tannins fully resolved. The fruit has almost faded away, yet the wine still seems vigorous. Drink up.
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Cockburn's Port - 1912
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* Expert NoteJanuary 12, 2012
Served alongside the 1912 and the 1935, this was by far the darkest and reddest-colored of the flight. Rich berry aromas soar from the glass, graced by notes of toffee and coffee. The alcohol is well integrated, almost hidden in the masses of rich, chocolaty fruit and supple, velvety mouthfeel. Shows great length on the finish, which picks up gorgeous hints of toffee and caramel. Absolutely delicious; it would be hard to say this is fading because it’s so good right now. Drink or hold.
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Cockburn's Port - 1927
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* Expert NoteJanuary 12, 2012
Entirely amber colored, this has taken on many qualities of a fine old tawny, boasting aromas of toffee and citrus peel, flavors that include nuts and maple syrup. The fruit is tired, but the wine still shows beautiful tawny character. Drink up.
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Cockburn's Port - 1935
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* Expert NoteJanuary 12, 2012
“A small vintage,” according to Côrte-Real, and one declared only by Cockburn’s, Ferreira, Sandeman and Warre. The color is a translucent ruby, with obvious bricking. The aromas and flavors are intoxicating: perfumed floral notes blend with red berries, chocolate and toffee, picking up some peppery, anise-tinged notes on the finish. This is a soft and approachable vintage Port, one that might be termed feminine or “sexy,” in the words of Côrte-Real. Drink up.
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Cockburn's Port - 1947
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* Expert NoteJanuary 12, 2012
Lighter in color than the other wines in the flight (’47 and ’55) and slightly less impressive, with hints of tomato and herb sneaking in. It shows a decent amount of ripe fruit, but it’s harder and more austere than either the ’47 or ’55, with a greater dependence on dried spices and cocoa in place of fruit. It’s hard to tell whether this wine is in a closed phase or starting to slide. Drink or hold.
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Cockburn's Port - 1963
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* Expert NoteJanuary 12, 2012
Ruby color, with just a hint of brick at the rim. Mouthfilling red berries and plums, finishing with chocolate and peppery spice. Overall, it’s a bit austere, but pretty, and capable of another decade or two of further aging. Drink or hold.
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Cockburn's Port - 1970
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* Expert NoteJanuary 12, 2012
Slightly deeper and richer in color than the 1947, featuring rich cassis aromas, violets and dried spices. It’s wonderfully rich in the mouth—expansive and mouthfilling, yet not lacking at all for nuance or complexity. Tannins are resolved, but the wine is still sturdy and holding well. Drink now or, based on the strength of the ’27, hold up to 20 more years.
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Cockburn's Port - 1955
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* Expert NoteJanuary 12, 2012
The 1977 vintage was not officially declared by Cockburn’s—this sample was from a small stock of 1,000 bottles that was not released commercially. According to Côrte-Real, the staff at Cockburn’s felt that ’77 was “not as great as people thought.” The company also had ample supplies of the 1975 in the market, which also may have influenced the decision not to declare. Based on the showing of this bottle, it was a big mistake. Ruby-colored, with only traces of brick and a nose of exuberant fruit joined by toffee and floral elements, you can tell immediately this is special. In the mouth, it’s very supple and elegant, what Côrte-Real describes as “a little feminine. Not exactly in the house style.” Drink or hold.
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Cockburn's Port - 1977
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* Expert NoteJanuary 12, 2012
This seems lighter in weight than expected, despite an impressively dark, saturated color. Lots of cherries and dried spices on the palate, along with aromas of walnuts and smoked meat. “Passing through some middle-age disturbances,” as Côrte-Real said, or just very good Port, not great? Hold.
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Cockburn's Port - 1994
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