Winery - Nefarious Cellars
* Expert NoteJanuary 12, 2012
Upland Vineyards, the largest planting on the new Snipes Mountain AVA, provided the grapes for this dark, dense, smoky/inky Malbec. Fruit flavors are pinpoint wild berry and cassis, but what really anchors the wine are the darkly flavorful tannins, a mix of bitter chocolate, smoky espresso, and coffee grounds. This is not a wine that tries to seduce you; it’s for serious steak eaters.
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* Expert NoteJanuary 12, 2012
A first-time red blend from Nefarious. It’s a bit lighter and smoother than the varietal reds, but still carries the winery’s signature of firm acids, stiff tannins, layered aromas and tightly wound fruit. Red berries, currant, pomegranate and stone are the most noticeable flavors, with some pretty chocolate in the finish.
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* Expert NoteJanuary 12, 2012
There is a lovely balance to this Viognier, and a sense that these cool-climate grapes were not pushed too far. The winemaker, happily, chose to make the wine that the vineyard gave her. Delicate and layered, with paper-thin suggestions of citrus rind, grapefruit and white peach. Still tightly knit, this wine very slowly unwinds long after you’ve swallowed that first sip or two.
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* Expert NoteJanuary 12, 2012
This new vintage of Consequence deftly mixes the strengths of each grape. The Sauv Blanc provides a pleasingly green, herbal base; the Aligoté fills in with some stone fruit flesh; and the Viognier boosts the aromatics, with floral/citrus highlights.
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* Expert NoteJanuary 12, 2012
This excellent Riesling proves that the 2006 Stone’s Throw Vineyard was no fluke. Heather Neff is a winemaker who understands the grape, and seems to be out in front exploring the possibilities for Riesling in Washington’s emerging Lake Chelan wine region. Fragrant with honeycomb, beeswax and a mix of citrus blossoms, this lively wine is rich without being tiring, off-dry but not sweet or sugary, and delicately balanced through an extended finish.
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* Expert NoteJanuary 12, 2012
From the Weinbau vineyard, a hot site on the Wahluke Slope, this ripe, chewy Cabernet Franc beautifully expresses a Washington take on the grape. The tannins are there in force, but all the rough edges are polished, and they are ripe with black olive and black tea flavors. Right behind is a solid core of cassis and blueberry fruit, streaked with iron and smoke. A very fine effort from an exciting new winery.
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* Expert NoteJanuary 12, 2012
If Syrah can be elegant, this is the poster child. Dark and saturated, this wine is nonetheless light and almost airy, in a good way. The fruit flavors (berries and plums) seem to float above a bed of acid and ripe tannins. There are light streaks of iron and coffee and nuances and suggestions of rock and earth. The grapes are from Fielding Hills’ Riverbend Vineyard—if you like those wines, you will surely like this as well.
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* Expert NoteJanuary 12, 2012
An elegant Viognier, this first release from a young Lake Chelan vineyard has unusual delicacy for this often-bitter grape. At a moderate 13% alcohol, it shows lemon and lime rind, pink grapefruit and just a hint of white peach flavors. It finishes dry, and despite its lightness, it has a nice grip and persistence through the finish as well as firm acidity. Could be a gem with fresh oysters.
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* Expert NoteJanuary 12, 2012
Great color and dense aromas promise a bit more heft than the wine initially delivers, but it’s off to a good start. Inky purple and scented with lead pencil, iron, blackberry and black cherry; flavors follow. The wine spent 18 months in 100% new French oak yet does not smell or taste oaky; its supple and muscular, with the potential to age. It seems to fall away in the middle, then resonates through a firm finish. Definitely could be cellared for a decade or more.
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* Expert NoteJanuary 12, 2012
Aromatic and lively, with honeysuckle, peach, apricot, apple and cinnamon pear scents. It’s delicate and complex in the mouth; bone dry and yet carries a lovely sensation of sweet blossom. Another very fine effort from this up and coming Chelan winery.
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