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Life With Wine
Life With Wine
The World of Alois Clemens Lageder
Alois Clemens Lageder, 25, arrived in New York for an internship with the wine distributer Martin Scott. He’d come via Volnay, the Burgundy town where he had been apprenticing in the vineyards of Domaine Marquis d’Angerville, only to find that he had rented an apartment from a scam artist. It was a rude welcome from a city he’s grown to love, and perhaps his first lesson in economic management, one of the many subjects he will study over the next four years as he travels the world preparing to work by his father’s side at Alois Lagader, the family winery in northern Italy.
Clemens, as he is known, will be the fifth “Alois” since 1823 to run the operation in the stunning wine region of Alto-Adige, an amphitheater at the foot of the Dolomites that gets three hundred days of sun annually. One of Clemens’ favorite wines is Lageder’s “Porer” pinot grigio, a single-vineyard wine from his family’s biodynamic site in Malgré. With opulent fruit and a refreshing mineral finish, it showcases pinot grigio at its most expressive and elegant and is a revelation of what careful vineyard management can do for the much-abused variety.
At Lageder, the importance of interconnectedness and harmony championed by Rudolf Steiner (the Austrian philosopher considered the father of biodynamics) extends far beyond the vineyards. Throughout the winery, artwork draws your attention to the earth and the cosmos, be it the glass planters filled with soil from their top vineyards or the slate slabs depicting constellations. Each year a composer is invited for a week-long residency to draw inspiration for an original work to be performed at their music festival, VIN-o-TON. For the Lageders, it’s important to teach by example how art and wine wake up our senses and make us more alive. For Clemens, serving his pinot grigio from the Porer vineyard with chanterelles and pasta is a good place to start.
What is your favorite wine to pair with pasta? Tell us below!
Spaghetti & Chanterelles
• 1 pound spaghetti
• pound chanterelles
• tablespoons butter
• medium shallot, finely diced
• garlic clove, minced
• teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped
• ½ cup dry white wine
• Salt & fresh pepper
• ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
• ¼ cup fresh parsley, chopped
Remove the bottom of the chanterelle stems with a pairing knife and brush the dirt off the mushrooms with a soft brush. Warm a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the butter. Once the butter melts and begins to bubble, add the chanterelles. Sauté for 12 minutes. (During this time, you will see the chanterelles release their liquid, the liquid evaporate and the mushrooms begin to turn golden brown.)
Once the mushrooms begin to brown, add the shallots, garlic and thyme. Sauté until the shallots are translucent and the garlic softens, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and simmer for 5 minutes, until you can no longer smell the alcohol. Season to taste with salt and fresh pepper. Turn off the heat and cover the pan to keep the chanterelles warm.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil and cook the spaghetti until it is firm but not soft, about 8-10 minutes. Drain the spaghetti in a colander and immediately transfer it to a large bowl. Gently toss with the olive oil and grated Parmesan cheese before dividing the spaghetti between 4 serving bowls. Spoon the sautéed chanterelles over the spaghetti, garnish with the chopped parsley and enjoy.